Burgundy

Burgundy: The Heart of French Winemaking

Burgundy’s Winemaking Legacy

Burgundy, or Bourgogne in French, is one of the most prestigious and historic wine regions in the world. Famed for its exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines, Burgundy has long served as a global benchmark for quality winemaking. The region’s vineyards have been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, further cementing its place as an essential part of France’s viticultural heritage.

A Unique Terroir for Exceptional Wines

Situated in the east-central part of France, Burgundy is one of the northernmost regions for red wine production. The cool climate plays a crucial role in shaping the characteristics of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which thrive in such conditions. While this cool climate contributes to the wines’ elegance and finesse, it also brings challenges, making Burgundy’s wines highly variable depending on the vintage. This variability adds to the intrigue and complexity of Burgundy wines, making them some of the most sought-after bottles in the world.

The Geography of Burgundy’s Vineyards

Burgundy's vineyards stretch from Dijon in the north down to almost Lyon in the south, following the course of the Saône River. At the heart of the region, Beaune is considered the wine capital of Burgundy. Burgundy wines boast a history dating back to antiquity and are among the most prestigious French wines, alongside those of Bordeaux. Compared to Bordeaux, Burgundy is characterized by small-scale wineries, often not exceeding five hectares, and a wine classification system based on “Climats”—small vineyard plots (over 360 across the region) that reflect the land’s unique properties, shaping the concept of terroir. The region is divided into several distinct wine-producing areas:

Chablis (far north, near Auxerre) – Produces some of the world's most refined Chardonnay.
Côte d’Or (the heart of Burgundy) – Further divided into:
- Côte de Nuits (famous for world-class Pinot Noir, including Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Côte de Beaune (home to both renowned whites, like Meursault and Montrachet, and reds like Pommard and Volnay)
Côte Chalonnaise (more affordable reds and whites, including Mercurey and Givry)
Mâconnais (renowned for accessible Chardonnay, including Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran)
Beaujolais (geographically part of Burgundy but distinct, known for Gamay wines like Beaujolais Nouveau).

Climat: The Essence of Burgundy Terroir

Burgundy is unique in its concept of “Climat”, a term referring to small, precisely defined vineyard plots with unique soil, climate, and historical significance. In addition to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Burgundy also grows Aligoté (a white grape variety from the Mâconnais used to produce mass-produced wines and sometimes found in Crémant de Bourgogne) and Gamay, the famous red grape used to produce Beaujolais wines. There are over 360 recognized Climat in the region, each contributing to the individuality of the wines produced. Unlike Bordeaux, where estates (châteaux) dominate, Burgundy’s wineries (domaines) often consist of multiple small vineyard plots, sometimes spread across different appellations.

The Classification System of Burgundy Wines

Burgundy’s wines are classified into a four-tier system based on the specificity and prestige of the vineyard site:

Regional Appellations – Entry-level wines labeled Bourgogne Rouge (red) or Bourgogne Blanc (white), made from grapes sourced across the region.
Village Appellations – Wines from specific villages, such as Meursault, Gevrey-Chambertin, and Pommard.
Premier Cru – Higher-quality wines from designated vineyard sites within a village, such as Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru ‘Les Suchots’.
Grand Cru – The pinnacle of Burgundy winemaking, with just 33 Grand Cru vineyards, including Romanée-Conti, Montrachet, and Clos de Vougeot.

Burgundy has long been synonymous with prestigious wines deliberately produced in small quantities and increasingly destined for wealthy non-European markets, which can afford to pay significant sums both for prestigious and well-known labels and for less famous but still high-quality bottles.

Quality that in Burgundy is achieved by taking care of the vines in an almost obsessive manner, thus obtaining bunches where the maturity of the fruit is carefully controlled to arrive at a product, we are referring in particular to red wines, of extraordinary balance despite having very little extract and delicate tannins.

A curious note: the most prestigious vineyards in Burgundy, when (very rarely) they are put up for sale, fetch mind-boggling figures: recently 7.32 hectares of vineyard were paid the grand sum of 150 million euros!

A Look at Burgundy’s Key Subregions

Chablis: The Land of Pure Chardonnay

Located in the northernmost part of Burgundy, Chablis is renowned for its mineral-driven Chardonnay with bright acidity and flinty notes. Unlike many white Burgundies, most Chablis wines are aged in stainless steel rather than oak, preserving their crisp, fresh character. The appellation includes:

Petit Chablis (entry-level)
Chablis (village-level wines)
Chablis Premier Cru (40 vineyards)
Chablis Grand Cru (7 vineyards, including Les Clos and Blanchots)

Côte de Nuits: The Kingdom of Pinot Noir

This northern part of the Côte d’Or is home to some of the most prestigious red wines in the world. Notable villages include:

Gevrey-Chambertin (home to 9 Grand Cru vineyards)
Vosne-Romanée (produces the legendary Romanée-Conti)
Nuits-Saint-Georges (bold and structured Pinot Noir)

Côte de Beaune: Where Reds and Whites Shine

Unlike the Côte de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune is known for both rich Chardonnay and elegant Pinot Noir. Key villages include:

Puligny-Montrachet & Chassagne-Montrachet (home to Montrachet, the most famous Grand Cru white Burgundy)
Meursault (produces luxurious, creamy Chardonnay)
Pommard & Volnay (renowned for red wines with depth and elegance)

Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais: Affordable Excellence

For those looking for great value Burgundies, these two regions offer excellent wines at lower prices.

Côte Chalonnaise: Mercurey (Pinot Noir), Montagny (Chardonnay)
Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé (high-quality Chardonnay), Mâcon-Villages (approachable whites)

Beaujolais: A Region of Its Own

Although technically part of Burgundy, Beaujolais produces wines from Gamay, a lighter, fruitier red grape. The region is famous for Beaujolais Nouveau, but its Cru Beaujolais wines (e.g., Morgon, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent) offer much greater depth and complexity.

The Evolution of Burgundy Wines

Burgundy’s winemaking history dates back to the Romans, but it was during the Middle Ages that religious orders like the Cistercians and Benedictines developed the concept of Climat and fine-tuned viticulture techniques. The French Revolution led to the redistribution of vineyards from the Church and aristocracy to smaller landowners, creating the highly fragmented vineyard ownership seen today.

In the 19th century, the introduction of oak barrels for aging revolutionized Burgundy wines, enhancing their complexity and aging potential. However, the phylloxera crisis in the late 1800s devastated the vineyards, leading to replanting in the region’s most favorable sites, ultimately improving overall wine quality.

There are some important dates in the history of wine in Burgundy:

In the 6th century AD, Burgundy wine was already known in religious communities.
In the 12th century, the work of the monks of Cluny in the area of Maconnais and Chalonnais, of those of Citeaux in the area of Cote d’Or, Chalonnais and Chablis, created the basis of the current classification of the most suitable areas; the Cistercians did not limit themselves to planting new vineyards in uncultivated lands, but were also at the origin of the propagation of Burgundian viticulture in medieval Europe, particularly in Germany (Moselle and Rhine).
In 1253, the vineyards in the Côte d’Or were censused.
The first guidebook on Burgundian vineyards dates back to 1772, in the form of a travel diary written by an Abbot during his trip to France.
In 1855, a fundamental book was published, by Jul Lavalle, in which all the historic Burgundian vineyards were framed and classified.
In 1935, the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) was founded and in 1936 the first Burgundy denomination, Morey-Saint-Denis, was recognized.

It is interesting to note that until 1906 there was no bottle produced entirely by a winemaker, as the bottling, distribution and marketing of Burgundy wines had been in the hands of negociants since as far back as 1720: it was precisely in 1906 that the first “self-produced” bottle of Pinot Noir was produced in the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay.

A Journey Through Burgundy: A Must-Visit for Wine Lovers

For those eager to explore Burgundy firsthand, a visit to the Maison des Climats in Beaune offers a deep dive into the region’s terroir, history, and winemaking techniques. Travelers should also consider touring the legendary vineyards of Vosne-Romanée, Puligny-Montrachet, and Gevrey-Chambertin, stopping for tastings at family-run domaines.

In November often the famous Auction of the Hospices de Beaune takes place.

This is an unforgettable opportunity to acquire some exceptional vintages. The wines come from the prestigious Hospices de Beaune estate, built up through donations since the 15th century. Covering around 60 hectares, the estate is mainly composed of Premiers and Grands Crus. So, whether you are a lover of fine wines or a professional in the sector, come and try to win one of the 50 exceptional wines up for auction.

Final Thoughts

Burgundy remains one of the world’s most captivating wine regions, combining centuries-old traditions with a relentless pursuit of excellence. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious beginner, discovering the wines of Burgundy is a journey worth taking—one sip at a time.

Correct answers to the test:

Correct answers:

B) Specific vineyard plots with unique soil and climate characteristics

C) Pinot Noir

B) Corton

A) Chablis

B) Montrachet

C) Offers excellent wines at more affordable prices than the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits

C) 33

A) Les Malconsorts

C) Vosne-Romanée

C) Winemaking method