SANGIOVESE DEL MIO STIVALE...The Sangiovese: Italy's Most Cultivated Red Grape Variety
Italy is a country rich in diverse types of grape varieties, with each region having its own native grapes: a heritage of over 400 different species that producers are striving to re-evaluate as never before. Many of these grapes have made Italian wine famous worldwide. However, there is one grape that, due to its tradition, the prestige of the great wines it produces, and its variety, tells a particularly fascinating story: Sangiovese.
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Sangiovese is the most cultivated red grape in Italy, predominantly in the central regions: Tuscany and Emilia Romagna first, then Umbria, Marche, and Lazio.
Practically synonymous with the red wines of Tuscany and all the romance that accompanies the region, Sangiovese is at the heart of some of the great names in Italian wine.
In Tuscany, Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the prestigious Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and forms the backbone of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the famous Chianti Classico wines. But it is a component in many wines, some of which are very well known, such as Carmignano, Rosso Piceno, Rosso Conero, Morellino di Scansano, Sangiovese di Romagna, and many others.
Outside of Italy, Sangiovese is cultivated in modest quantities in California (Napa Valley, Sonoma, and Sierra Foothills), Argentina (Mendoza), and Australia. Sangiovese is also grown in Corsica, where it is known as Nielluccio. This distribution makes it difficult to give an absolute description of the wine derived from Sangiovese, as its various expressions range from affordable red wines to the top-quality Brunello di Montalcino. Generally speaking, we can say that wines made from pure Sangiovese have relatively high acidity and a high tannin content, moderate color, and medium structure. The high productivity of Sangiovese forces producers to use meticulous cultivation practices to mitigate its vigor. Often, to soften its natural "roughness," Sangiovese is blended with wines made from other grapes, such as Canaiolo Nero in Chianti and Torgiano Rosso in Umbria.
THE ORIGINS OF THE NAME
As the most widely cultivated vine in Italy, producing some of the most prestigious and famous wines in the world, Sangiovese holds significant resonance and weight in the world of viticulture and enology. For this reason, extensive studies have been conducted over the years on both the origins of the name and the geographical provenance of Sangiovese, the latter of which is highly contested.
Among the Etruscan words identified and translated, as well as those undeciphered, there are some that resonate with “Sangiovese.” This etymological research reinforces the idea of an ancient origin and diffusion of Sangiovese in the Etruscan area. For example, the word "Sanisva" (very close to the Romagna dialect term “sanzvés”) means father or deceased ancestor and could be linked to the wine of the fathers or wine for a funerary offering to family members.
The ancestral connection with blood, one of the oldest symbols closely linked to wine, has led to interpretations that the word Sangiovese derives from:
- Sanguis Jovis, meaning the blood of Jupiter, or Blood of the hill ridges or Beneficial to the blood.
Perhaps legend or perhaps truth is the story attributed to a Capuchin monk from the convent of Sant’Arcangelo di Romagna, near Mount Giove: on the occasion of a banquet in honor of Pope Leo XII, when asked by the Pontiff about the name of the exquisite nectar served by the monks, the monk replied, “Sanguis Jovis,” blood of Jupiter.
Another interpretation suggests that the name derives from Saint John: Sangiovese is a grape that buds at the end of June for the feast of Saint John the Baptist, and for this reason, in some parts of the Tuscan countryside, it is called “Sangiovannina.” Others claim it derives from San Giovanni Valdarno, where it originated. It is certain that Sangiovese was cultivated by both the Etruscans and later the Romans. Therefore, a more likely derivation is from the Latin “jugalis” (which passed into Old French as “jouelle” to indicate the support resembling a yoke that connects two vines).
THE HISTORY OF SANGIOVESE
It is believed that the famous grape was already known more than 2,000 years ago and that the Etruscans used it for wine production. If there is a wine that has always attracted scholars, connoisseurs, and enthusiasts for its history and character, it is Sangiovese. It was first mentioned by the famous Florentine agronomist Giovanvettorio Soderini in his "Coltivazione toscana delle viti e d'alcuni alberi" in 1590 under the name “Sangiogheto”: Sangiogheto is a "juicy and very full-bodied wine," "a grape that never fails." The “Sangioeto” is depicted as one of the main grape varieties produced in the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in the 1700 painting "Uve" by Bartolomeo Bimbi (1648-1729), a specialist in still life representation in the service of the Medici. In 1726, Cosimo Trinci, a famous agronomist from Pistoia, praised San Zoveto in his work “L’Agricoltore sperimentato”: “San Zoveto is a beautiful quality grape and produces an infinite amount every year.”
In 1773, Giovanni Cosimo Villifranchi, a Florentine doctor and botanist, noted it in "Oenologia Toscana," “on Tuscan wines in particular”: “S.Gioveto. A red almost black grape, round, of medium size, with a hard skin... It tends to be abundant and almost never fails... It makes very colorful and spirited wine... It is commonly mixed with other grapes and wonderfully gives body and strength to weak wines.”
19TH CENTURY STUDIES: “A COMPLETELY TUSCAN GRAPE”
In the 19th century, the Ligurian pomologist Giorgio Gallesio discussed San Gioveto in his "Pomona Italiana." During his trip to Tuscany in 1833, he observed Sangioveto among the dominant grapes in the Sienese territory. He conducted various comparative studies and concluded that Sangioveto was “a completely Tuscan grape and perhaps the most precious of the grapes of this land so dear to Bacchus.”
From Tuscany and Romagna, the cultivation of Sangiovese expanded to other Italian regions such as Marche, Umbria, Abruzzo, and Lazio by the late 1800s. Various accounts in these regions always reference an original Tuscan or Romagna provenance. Thus, the most widely accepted hypothesis to date is that Sangiovese is an indigenous grape of Tuscany, already associated with the trade routes of the Etruscans, who may have introduced it to the region.
NEW MILLENNIUM STUDIES: SURPRISES ABOUT ORIGINS
The first genetic analyses conducted in the early 2000s revealed a surprise: Sangiovese is not related to any of the wild vines in Tuscany. It shows a first-degree relationship with a lesser-known grape of uncertain origins, Ciliegiolo, cultivated in Tuscany but also in some southern regions under different names. Sangiovese could be the offspring of Ciliegiolo or one of its parents.
In 2007, an entirely Italian research team conducted further genetic analyses and hypothesized that Sangiovese is the offspring of Ciliegiolo. The other parent might be an obscure Calabrian variety recovered in Campania from an old vineyard and locally called “Calabrese di Montenuovo.” In 2013, a research group from CRA in Bari proposed a third hypothesis: Sangiovese is indeed the offspring of Ciliegiolo, but the other parent could be an old southern variety, believed lost but recently recovered, called Negrodolce.
A 2014 study confirmed that Sangiovese was cultivated in the south, particularly in Sicily and Calabria, for so long that it crossed with Mantonico di Bianco (or Montuonico, a Calabrian grape) to produce Nerello Mascalese, Gaglioppo di Cirò, and Mantonicone, confirming previous studies.
SANGIOVESE: “A COMPLETELY ITALIAN GRAPE”
For absolute certainty about the origins of Sangiovese, we will need more sophisticated genetic studies. However, all the evidence, combined with the observation that Sangiovese is still cultivated in Calabria and Sicily under other names, strongly suggests the hypothesis that Sangiovese is not an ancient Tuscan variety as previously thought but originated in southern Italy in ancient times, from a spontaneous or intentional cross, and was transplanted to Tuscany.
In general, we talk about Sangiovese, but in reality, this term defines a large number of varieties (or clones) that have differentiated over the centuries and in different regions. In Tuscany, for example, two large families are distinguished: Sangiovese Grosso (known throughout history by other names: Brunello in Montalcino and Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano) and Sangiovese Piccolo, used in most of the region. It is noteworthy that Brunello was the local name given in Montalcino to what was believed to be a distinct grape variety. In 1879, the Ampelographic Commission of the Province of Siena determined, after several years of controlled experiments, that Sangiovese and Brunello were the same grape variety. In Montalcino, the name Brunello thus transformed into the designation of the wine produced purely from Sangiovese grapes.
For this reason, it is difficult to provide an absolute description of the wine produced from Sangiovese, which certainly has some common constants (good tannins and high acidity) but can range from the most economical red wine to the high-quality peaks of Brunello, a highly valued wine produced in the Montalcino area; here, in the unique habitat of the Montalcino hills, it produces one of the most appreciated reds in the world for its structure, fullness of taste, elegance, and aging capacity. The peculiarities of the grape are nonetheless recognizable by characteristics related to chemical and sensory descriptors with defined fruit (blackberry jam, plum, cherry) and flower (iris) aromas and scents.
Recently, the differentiation between Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo has been disregarded due to the lack of any taxonomic and scientific reference. Instead, individual clones with codes assigned by the nursery system are referred to, or mass selections made by individual producers, such as Biondi Santi, Poggione, and Lisini in Montalcino. The current regulations of the Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino no longer mention "Sangiovese Grosso," but only "Sangiovese."
Sangiovese is a late-ripening grape with an excellent ability to adapt to different soil types. It prefers soils with a good percentage of limestone sediments, which enhance its best and most elegant aromas as well as its finest qualities. Sangiovese is somewhat sensitive to mold, especially in cold and wet years or in regions where the autumn season is particularly rainy.
What Makes Sangiovese the Most Important of Tuscan Grapes
A challenging yet highly age-worthy grape, Sangiovese reaches its peak expression in the inland areas of Tuscany. Here, the soils of clay, marl, schist, and little sand provide ideal pedological conditions. The gentle slopes of the famous Tuscan hills ensure proper drainage, while the cool climate enhances its finesse, elegance, and delicate aromas: violet and crisp small red fruits when young, with pepper and tobacco notes emerging as it ages, reaching hints of balsamic and forest floor at its peak complexity.
The Organoleptic Characteristics of the Grape
Another advantage of Sangiovese is its organoleptic characteristics. Tuscan red wines based on Sangiovese are noted for their intriguing salinity and good acidity, which, sip after sip, leave the palate clean enough to fully enjoy the next bite. This, combined with a good tannic structure, makes it the perfect wine for a wide range of pairings.
A challenging grape variety with great aging potential, Sangiovese reaches its peak expression in the inland areas: here, clays, marls, schists, and a bit of sand provide ideal soil conditions. The gentle slopes of the famous Tuscan hills ensure proper drainage; finally, the cool climate enhances its finesse, elegance, and delicate aromas: violet and crisp red berries when young, pepper and tobacco as it ages, with balsamic and underbrush hints at its peak complexity.
It is indeed undeniable that its organoleptic characteristics seem to have been designed specifically to accompany food. Its medium acidity makes it excellent for pairing with all types of vegetables. Do you want to taste the fruity flavors that Sangiovese offers? Try it with roasted peppers or tomatoes. Also enjoy it with mature cheeses or grilled ribs.
5 Must-Try Tuscan Red Wines Made from Sangiovese
We have selected 5 wines that we consider perfect ambassadors of this versatile grape variety. These are iconic bottles of pure Sangiovese, where its most distinctive traits are fully expressed, each time reflecting a unique array of nuances.
Let's start this review of excellent Tuscan Sangiovese-based wines with a true classic.
Chianti Classico: In a Word, Sangiovese
This emblematic pairing of Tuscan winemaking, Chianti Classico, and Sangiovese, are inextricably linked. The undisputed protagonist of this historic and prestigious DOCG, Sangiovese is present at a minimum of 80%, though more and more producers are opting for pure Sangiovese expressions.
Located between Florence and Siena, in this stony land, Sangiovese reaches very high levels of quality. The richness of Chianti Classico in this sense lies in the characteristics of the soil. Dry due to the abundant stones that ensure good drainage, the soil is perfect for Sangiovese, which thrives in clay-limestone hill terrain.
A Chianti Classico therefore has a floral bouquet that, thanks to its calcareous component, brings out berry notes, and iris and violet nuances typical of this sandstone-rich area.
Sangiovese in the Land of Brunello
Brunello by name, Brunello by nature: here, in the tiny municipality of Montalcino in the province of Siena, Sangiovese is called Brunello because of its color.
The renowned Brunello DOCG is indeed made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes, but it should be noted that the Montalcino hill is known for having slopes with significantly different pedological characteristics. These differences translate into distinct nuances from vineyard to vineyard and from bottle to bottle.
The Four Faces of Montalcino
In broad terms, the Sangiovese from the southern vineyards dominated by Mount Amiata tends to be more mineral and savory, with soft tannins. In the north, the wines are robust and aromatic.
On the eastern slope, wines of character are typically produced, while on the western slope, the wines are appreciated for their savory and age-worthy qualities, thanks to the sea breeze.
Of the Nobleman of Montepulciano the King
We remain in the province of Siena to focus on a third DOCG where Sangiovese is once again the undisputed king of great red wines.
This is the DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. A denomination that made history as the first Italian DOCG ever: it was 1 July 1980 when Nobile became the first wine in Italy to be able to boast the bands of the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin. This consecrated it as one of the most prestigious wines of the Bel Paese.
With its minimum 70% of Prugnolo Gentile - a local clone of Sangiovese -, Nobile is an elegant and full-bodied wine. Once again, its secret lies in the characteristics of the soil: sands alternate with clays, creating ideal conditions for producing structured, fragrant wines with fine tannins.
The Maremma Morellino di Scansano
After these three undisputed icons of the most traditional expression of Sangiovese in Tuscany, we want to take you to more contemporary frequencies by focusing on two interpretations with the most recent success.
The first is the DOCG Morellino di Scansano. The identity of this warm and dry Maremma Sangiovese – which here is called Morellino – is that of a great Italian red wine. Once considered the less brilliant younger brother of Brunello and the other big names in Tuscany, today it has inexorably become the protagonist of Tuscan winemaking.
We are a few steps from the sea. Here the Morellino, thanks to the acid-alkaline soils rich in marine sediments, gives rise to wines with fine tannins and clean in their incredible stratification of aromas.
Many sommeliers find Sangiovese similar to Spanish Tempranillo or Austrian Zweigelt - but I wouldn't go so far in comparisons...
Pinot Noir and Sangiovese share some common characteristics such as cherry as the main fruit flavor and medium-high acidity.
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