Volcanic Wines: the secrets

If we talk about volcanoes, it is natural to think of something negative: a danger, a natural catastrophe, destruction. Few people know that the volcanic eruptions that took place over the centuries have also given rise to a terrestrial substrate that is precious for agriculture and viticulture in particular.

On some level, it seems a little nuts to make wine on the slopes of a volcano. After all, Sicily's Mount Etna has erupted four times in the past 10 years. Pliny the Elder, who witnessed the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D., wrote, "As to the wines of Pompeii, they [arrive] at their full perfection in 10 years." Then what makes these wines so special? A wine is defined as volcanic when it comes from grapes grown on volcanic soils. In the world of oenology, which sometimes has complex definitions, this seems very linear. But the complexities arrive as soon as you enter this very particular category of wines.

First curiosity: in these lands, ideal for the production of excellent wines, there are often ungrafted vines, that is, not grafted on American vine roots. This leads us to have longer-lived, robust and drought-tolerant plants. But why is it precisely in these lands that we find ungrafted vines? The volcanic soil, composed of very fine sand of eruptive origin due to the deposit of ash and lapilli, determines a great permeability and therefore favors the penetration of plant roots, becoming an ideal habitat for the vine and at the same time making it impossible for harmful parasites to survive, such as phylloxera.

Terroir

In viticulture we understand the significant impact of soils on wine styles, in addition to the varieties of vines used, and a number of other more or less complex parameters. And when we talk about different types of soils, have you ever thought about volcanic soils? In our vision we could imagine black, poor soils, where all traces of life would have been wiped out… and yet they are the most vitals! Wher a volcanic activity did take place, a sign is left, marked, engraved in the soil. Devastated soils rise from their ashes, offering new richness, diversity and qualities. Some studies have shown a much higher ionic concentration in wines produced on volcanic soils. In terms of taste, this could lead to the salty side that can be found in some wines… and which is particularly appreciable! The thing is, volcanic soils seem to help impart a distinctive character to wine, both red and white, not found in other places. Water drains through volcanic soil easily; the soil is high in mineral content. The result tends to be smaller, higher-acid, less effusively ripe fruit, producing taut, savory wines, concentrated in flavor but rarely heavy or dense—in my mind, ideal for the cool early days of spring. Soil minerality and acidity play a fundamental role. Characteristics that in the volcanic areas take on a unique importance as they are rich in phosphorus, magnesium and potassium that make the soil particularly suitable for the cultivation of high quality white and rosé wines. There is no single type of soil, which can be more clayey, rocky, rich in silicon, iron, sodium or other chemical composition, based on the previous geological activities of the area, capable of giving the wine different scents.

Their "secret" lies in the effect produced by the salinity of the soil, in combination with its acid part. A combination capable of restoring great balance in the wine, making it more pleasant and suitable for aging.

Despite this, it is important to know that volcanic soils are often difficult to cultivate, in this consisting largely of rocky material and with steep slopes. For this reason, experience becomes a primary aspect for the production of these wines, to which only a small part of producers choose to dedicate themselves, as determined as they are passionate about their work. Let's not make a mistake though: soils could be very different. When we talk about volcanic soils, we are actually dealing with a heterogeneous type of soils, which affect the vine in all its aspects and ultimately distinguish the characteristics of the wines that derive from it. Their common aspect is the richness in minerals.

Where can we find volcanic wines?

Volcanic soils are easily found in Italy (https://i2.res.24o.it/pdf2010/Editrice/ILSOLE24ORE/ILSOLE24ORE/Online/_Oggetti_Embedded/Documenti/2020/02/12/carta%20vulcani%20ITA%2030-01-2020.pdf) with its world famous volcanoes: Etna and Vesuvius and all along the skeleton of the Appenini (mountains from North to South, also close to Rome), including the small islands (Ischia, Ponza, Stromboli, Pantelleria). In Sicily, on the north-eastern slope of Etna, we find the famous DOC Etna. It is composed for the reds of Nerello Mascalese in dominant, and for the whites of Carricante. In Campania, near Naples and on the edge of Vesuvius, there are various wines and grape varieties that grow on volcanic soil. The most famous wine is Lacryma Christi. This wine recalls the loss of Pompeii before the eruption that destroyed this famous city in 79 AD. The most famous red wine here is Aglianico, but there are also many white wines made from Fiano, including Fiano di Avellino. Some grape varieties commonly used for the production of wines in volcanic territories are also Trebbiano, Falanghina, Grechetto, Moscato and Durello. Among them, let's not forget the Biancolella, a white grape variety, native to the coast and islands of Campania, where it was probably introduced from Corsica, where it is known as Petite Blanche and whose first cuttings were brought there by the Greeks. In Ischia, as well as in Procida and Capri, it has been cultivated since ancient times, while in Ponza it was introduced at the time of the Bourbons, as well as in the Amalfi and Sorrento coasts. Its history and the excellent results obtained from its wines mean that Biancolella is now considered a true indigenous grape variety of the island of Ischia and its wine posses a peculiar balsamic note.

In France, in the Alsace region, even though the volcanoes are now considered extinct. One can notably mention the Grand Cru Rangen, which is the most southern of the region, in Tahnn and Vieux-Thann. It is particularly renowned, and offers a tenfold aromatic expression, especially with the riesling, pinot gris, and gewurztraminer grapes. On the other side of the Alsatian border, there are also volcanic soils. In Germany, especially in the region of Baden, where we find some characteristics similar to some Alsatian wines. In Hungary too, the famous Tokaj region is concerned by this specificity. It has long been renowned for the quality of its wines. On the other side of the globe, on the American continent, we also find Chile, in the famous Cachapoal region, which produces excellent red wines from Carmenère, or in the United States, in Oregon, a region extremely well known for its Pinot Noir. But let’s not forget the islands which have many specificities and different styles. One thinks particularly of Greece with the Santorini islands. A famous and renowned white wine is produced there from the Assyrtiko grape variety. In the Canary Islands, on the side of Lanzarote, there are also vines growing on volcanic soils of an impressive black color, and with curious little mounds of stone protecting the vines from the strong wind that prevails there. Here there are no problems of competition, there is nothing else growing!

Finally, let’s not forget the Portuguese island of Madeira, which produces exceptional fortified wines, especially from the Sercial grape. A wine that must be tasted in one’s life and in which this saline touch is particularly felt in the finish.

Volcanic wines: a broad spectrum of scents

In recent years, also for the development of sophisticated techniques, research has multiplied on the role of the soil on chemical and sensorial characteristics. In one of the most recent, conducted on Riesling in some wine-growing areas of Germany, comparing wines obtained from soils originating from the degradation of sandstones, loess (silty-clayey) and basalts, it was possible to distinguish those coming from volcanic soils by some descriptors such as citrus, peach, mango and melon, present with more intense notes in young wines and for the “mineral” character in those of 2-3 years. Volcanic wines are generally fresh and of excellent drinkability, with a rich and balanced taste, as well as being very long-lived. In these wines acidity and flavor meet to find an optimal balance. Minerality, flavor, acidity above all. And then: persistence, elegance and complexity. In addition to the excellent predisposition to longevity.

Who is the most experienced sommelier of volcanic wines in the world?

The most universally recognized is John Szabo, Canadian master sommelier, author of the book "Volcanic Wines, salt, grit and power". He is responsible for the leadership of the Volcanic Wines International movement, in which Armenia, Chile, France, Germany, Greece, Israel, Italy, Portugal, Spain and the United States currently participate.